Marina Grande

Kraak! The moment you step off the ferry, you're already inside Procida. Marina Grande is the island's only commercial port — the first breath, the first glance, the place where everything begins.

And that first glance, trust me, is worth the trip alone. Right in front of you stands Palazzo Montefusco, dating back to the twelfth century — the Middle Ages — also known as the "Merlato", named for the magnificent battlements that crown the entire building like a stone tiara above the sea. In the past it served as the king's summer residence, then as a convent; today it is home to the people of Procida. Real history, living walls.

To the right of the quay opens the area known as "Sotto le Grotte" — literally "under the caves": grottos carved into the tufo, the volcanic rock typical of this island, where boats were once hauled ashore and which today serve as storage spaces. Criii! Past the ferry terminal, the shipyards and the Harbour Master's Office, you reach the beach of the same name, separated by a rocky breakwater from the one known as "Si Lurenza".

Walking along Via Roma, your eye catches a wooden crucifix from 1845, erected by sailors as a testament to their deep faith. Then the old, multicoloured houses line your path all the way to the square known as Sent'cò — its name derived from "Sancio Cattolico" — where the Church of the Sailors and of Santa Maria della Pietà stands, built in 1616. A church that smells of salt and quiet prayer.

Continuing along the quayside of the modern tourist marina, you reach the entrance gate of the "F. Caracciolo" school. Did you know that with its 180 years of history it is the oldest nautical institute in Europe? Squa-squa! A record that, on the island of sailors, comes as no surprise at all.

Further along lies the Lingua beach — named after the volcanic promontory pointing northward, where an iron cross stands. It was placed there to mark the sinking of Barbary corsair vessels in 1500. A silent marker facing the open sea, much like a seagull watching the horizon when the wind begins to shift.